A
borrower who is shopping for the best mortgage rate can easily
be seduced by low rate offers that are accompanied by low Annual
Percentage Rates (APR). Federal Law requires that APR be disclosed
along side the actual interest rate…this is in order to help borrowers
make a more informed decision on their mortgage. The truth is
that APR is a very poor way to comparison shop for a mortgage
and can cause borrowers to make costly wrong decisions.
APR
Assumptions
APR
was created in order to provide a way for borrowers to account
for costs associated with the mortgage. This sounds good because
it may not be very easy to choose between a loan with a lower
rate and higher fees or a loan at a higher rate and low fees.
The problem is that the APR calculation makes some very bad assumptions.
First, APR assumes zero inflation and that the value or buying
power of a Dollar today will be exactly equal to the value of
a Dollar 10, 20 even 30 years from now. Next, the APR calculation
assumes that the mortgage will never be prepaid or paid off. That
means no refinancing or selling the home…highly unlikely since
the average life of a home mortgage loan is less than four years.
Just think, about your own clients. Is it not rare to see the
same loan in place for even 5-years…forget 30-years. The APR calculation
does not consider the value of the money used for fees. So if
you spent thousands of dollars in points or fees to get a lower
rate, the APR calculation does not give any value to the money
if it were not spent on closing costs. Finally, APR does not take
tax consequences into consideration. This can be significant since
higher fees on the mortgage may not be deductible while the higher
interest rate typically is deductible. Moreover, APR can be manipulated,
making it totally worthless.
TOP
How
APR Works
So
how does APR work anyway? I like to explain it to my clients by
using triangles. I often draw two sets of triangle for my clients
to illustrate the difference between Interest Rate and APR. The
reason for the triangle is because there are 3 sources of input…"Interest
Rate", "Mortgage Amount" and "Monthly Payment". If you know any
two of the three, you can calculate the third. See the triangle
below.

Since
any two of the three variables allows you to calculate the third,
a $911 monthly payment for a $150,000 mortgage calculates to an
interest rate of 6.125%. But the APR calculation uses different
information. The APR calculation only keeps the "Monthly Payment"
information the same. Instead of the "Mortgage Amount", APR uses
"Amount Financed". This is the "Amount Financed" information on
the Truth in Lending statement. Amount Financed takes into consideration
the fees that are lender imposed. This includes application fees,
points, commitment fees…and interim or per diem interest. So,
Amount Financed is the mortgage amount less any lender fees, points
and interim interest. The more fees, the lower the Amount Financed.
The monthly payment is then calculated as a product of the Amount
Financed to give you the "Annual Percentage Rate" or "APR". So
the lower the "Amount Financed", the higher the "APR" is. Amount
Financed can be manipulated by assuming a closing on the last
day instead of the first day of the month. That would increase
the Amount Financed and decrease the APR.

Here
is a real example on a $150,000 fixed rate 30-year mortgage with
zero points: Lender "A" (triangle above) is offering a great low
rate of 5.875% and lender "B" (triangle below) is offering a higher
rate of 6.125%.

A
closer look shows that Lender "A" is charging $3,000 more in fees
than Lender "B". How do you compare? If you look at APR, Lender
"A" (5.875% with $3,000 higher fees) has an APR of 6.149%. Lender
"B" (6.125% but a $3,000 savings in fees) has an APR of 6.211%.
So according the APR, Lender A is a better deal even though the
fees are $3,000 higher…this is exactly what these high fee lenders
are hoping you look at.
Let's
look at the real story. The payment difference between the two
is $24 per month. So is it worth paying $3,000 in fees to Lender
A in order to save $24 per month? Hardly. It will take 10.5 years
for a borrower to just to get back their investment! A bad choice
when you consider that mortgage loans typically are retired within
four years. To make the decision to go with Lender "A" even worse,
if that's possible, borrowers rarely take the value of today's
dollars into account. Rather than giving Lender "A" the windfall
of your hard earned $3,000, you should give it to yourself. Reduce
the loan balance on your mortgage by the fees you are saving.
In the example above that would reduce the loan from $150,000
to $147,000. This makes the payment difference just $6 per month
instead of $24 per month! The true time to break even is really
500 months (more than 40-years!). So it is impossible to benefit
from the higher fee program from Lender "A" because the maximum
period on the loan is 30 years or 360 months. One more thing…when
you calculate your tax deduction on the payment difference, it
makes even more sense to avoid paying higher non deductible fees.
The obvious correct choice is to go with Lender "B" even though
the APR is lower with Lender "A".
TOP
If
you feel you could benefit from credit counseling, protect yourself
from fraudulent organizations. The U.S. Department of Housing
and Urban Development keeps a list of approved credit counseling
agencies at http://www.hud.gov/offices/hsg/sfh/hcc/hccprof14.cfm.
Below
is the list of the 3 main credit bureaus that creditors use to
report credit information about your current balance, minimum
payment requirements, and credit history.
Experian
Information Service (XPN)
PO Box 2002
Allen, TX 75013
(888) 397-3742
TransUnion
(TUC)
PO Box 1000
Chester, PA 79022
(800) 916-8800
Equifax
Information Services (EFX)
PO Box 740243
Atlanta, GA 30374
(800) 685-1111
TOP |